16.10. bis 08.11.2013
Bhutan: Reise ins Bruttosozialglück - Kultur, Festival und Trek mit Pony
Buddhismus ohne Dogmen
gelebt ohne Disziplin
"als erstes human beeing,
dann profession"
von allem das Letzte
last greetings from Lama
"keep in touch"
Bhutan im Herzen
Bergvolk mit Sanftheit, Gleichmut, Humor
ein Land ohne Ampeln
nach vielen buddhistischen und
landschaftlichen Eindrücke
Verabschiedung und trennende Wege
Suche nach der Offenheit für das Neue
ab in die Stadt
Souveniers
letztes Sightseeing
Abschied von der Langsamkeit
zurueck in die Schnelligkeit durch Einhalten von Daten
in Freude die letzte Nacht im Zelt
junger Guide in wachsender Liebe und Spaßigkeit
ausgelassen das gemeinsame Gruppenfoto
Abschiedsrituale
welches Lied singen wir?
die Crew stetig bemüht unsere Wünsche abzulesen
zu erfüllen
gemeinsames Murmeln
es bleibt die sprachliche Barriere
die trennende Kultur und Sozialisation
am Wendepunkt zur Rückkehr
tibetische Fahnen
versehen mit unseren Namen Bitten für Frieden in der Welt
frischgebackener Kuchen "Happy Trek"
Wegbegleiter - leider
Müll - Plastik- Alu - Batterien
zu viel um darüber hinwegzusehen
im Fluss, auf dem Weg, am Campsite
stetig nach oben
Anpassung an die Höhe problemlos
da ist er, der Jomolhari 7.325m
spitz, schneeig, mächtig
zunehmendes Heimweh nach dem Spielzimmer
pädagogische Hilfsstüzte:
10 Kinder, Moni, Leihoma, Opa reisen virtuell mit
"wer zahlt das?"
"Du Mama"
Nachts stetig kühler
ab 19 Uhr ins Zelt
bis -10 C
alles anziehen und anlassen
Bettflasche
warten bis zum Gutenmorgentee am Bett
Pferd Huri
vorsichtig im Bewegungsablauf um Franka an den Fersen nicht zu berühren
gelassen sanftmütig
zuverlässig über die stromreißenden Flussbrücken des Paroju
die jüngste Pferdreiterin und -führerin am Trek
souverän, ausdauernd, mit Freude
Bewunderung
Glück unser Wegbegleiter
mt vielen Gebeten für Sonne und gute Sicht
angenehme Nächte
Wege über Stock und Stein
slippery, matschig
auf und ab, stetig nach oben
zum Jomolhari
Trekänderung wegen Schnee und Eis ab 4.400m
der Trek beginnt ins Himalaya
Start mit Erkältung und Magenbeschwerden
Betreuungsschlüssel 6:4 , 12:10 Lastentiere, 2:4 Reittiere
eine andere Reiseform ruft
zu Fuss und per Pferd
Herausforderung gegenüber der Höhe
Weitblick ?
aus Maria wird Wangmo,
aus Franka Lhamo
Alexander zu Karma
Gerhard zu Dorji
aus Pema Schorsch und
Tschewang Sepp
Völkerverständigung mal anders
zurück aus der Zukunft
Wie geht's weiter
Widerspruch zwischen Anspruch und Wirklichkeit
die Entscheidung für das Sein im Moment
im Trotz zur Armut
den Einflüssen der Plastikwelt und
des Fastfoods
Wiederholung Fehler anderer?!
Bhutan auf dem Weg von der mentalen zur
materiellen Happiness?!
von der Tradition zur Moderne
mit Gegensprüchlichkeiten
der Weg zur happiness:
für ein Land ein Traum
für das Individuum die Entscheidung für welche
Begegnung mit Lama
gemeinsames Lachen und Lernen:
Kern des nature being like a child
in jedem steckt ein Buddha
Bogenschießen
farbenfrohe Holzfachwerkhäuser - terrassenformige Dorfgestaltung
natürliche Landschaft - abwechslungsreiche Wälder.
das Moderne ruft
Compassion für alle Lebewesen!
Mitgefühl für die räumliche Umgebung?
Auf jeden Fall "Phalli" an jedem Haus,
wo die Ehrung des Weiblichen?
innere Ruhe über heilige Natur
friedvolle Menschen
alles dreht sich um COMPASSION
europäische Touristen in bhutanesischer Tracht
Karrikatur der Tradition.
nachts heulende Straßenhunde.
Begegnung auf der Straße mit
Schlaglöchern
königlicher Familie.
willkommenheißende Ankunft
gecancelter Flug
Wer ist für uns da?
wo die Adresse
sofortige Hilfe für lange Abenteuerautofahrt
Stimmungsdämpfer: Müll
vor den Häusern, in der Landschaft
am exponierten Tigernest.
indische Straßenarbeiterinnen.
von 0 auf 2.300m
beeindruckende Landung zwischen den Bergen
Ankunft im Berghüttenhotel mit Tradition
farbenfrohe Innen- und Außenmalereien
Treffpunkt Thailand
Anreise aus zwei Kontinenten
Wiedersehen wie surreal
Wer die Reiseroute mit dem Trekkingteam Swiss Nepal im Detail nachlesen mag:
Day 1; 16 October:- Anflug von Bangkok;
During the flight to Paro, one will experience from the left hand side of the
plane breath taking views of famous Himalayan peaks, including the sacred
Chomolhari and Mount Jichu Drake in Bhutan. On arrival at Paro International
Airport, you will be received by our representatives who will escort you to the
Hotel where arrangements have been made for two nights halt. Udumwara or Gangtey Palace Hotel
Day 2; 17 October:- In Paro (mit Tigernest) – Tiger Nest Hike: after
early breakfast, drive to end of the road and hike to Taktsang Monastery. A
very special day, with an excursion to view the spectacular Taktsang (Tiger’s
Nest) monastery –After breakfast a short drive takes us to Satsam Chorten, from
there a 2 hr. walk till the viewpoint point of the monastery. The trail climbs
through beautiful pine forest, many of the trees festooned with Spanish moss,
and an occasional grove of fluttering prayer flags. We stop for a rest and
light refreshments at the Taktsang Jakhang (cafeteria) and then walk a short
distance until we see, clearly and seemingly within reach, Taktsang monastery.
The primary Lhakhang was built around Guru Rimpoche’s meditation cave in the
1684 by the Penlop of Paro Gyaltse Tenzin Rabgay, this incredible monastery
clings to the edge of a sheer rock cliff that plunges 900 meters into the
valley below. Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric mystic who
brought Buddhism to Bhutan, flew here on the back of a flying tiger, Dorji
Drolo, said to be his favorites consort and evening walk around Paro city
overnight at same Udumwara or
Gangtey Palace Hotel
Day 3; 18.October:- Early in the morning
domestic flight to
Bumthang. zum FESTIVAL Jambay Lhakhang –
:Festival: Enjoy festival dances and celebrations with
the people of Bumthang and nearby villages. Today you will stay awake till
midnight to catch an unusual naked dance, which is considered pious and
performed to sanctify the region and augur good harvest. Overnight hotel in
Bumthang. Other then Jambay Lhakhang there are many other temples you can visit
in Bumthang. Attend the Festival. Besides honoring the Guru Rinpoche, the
four day festival knows us Jambay Lhakhang Drup / Jambay Lhakhang Tsechu are
held in the premises of Jambay Lhakhang, which was built by Tibetan King
Songtsen Gampo in 7th century, to commemorate an establishment of the Lhakhang.
This festival is one of the very important festivals in Bhutan. The main high
light of this festivaval is the dance known as Ter Cham and Mewang-the
fire blessing’. The sacred naked dance is performed in the midnight and people
are not allowed to take the photographs. A fire dance or Mewang is held in the
evening to bless the infertile women so that they may bear children. The dances
were composed mostly my Terton(Treasure Discovery) Pema Lingpa in 15th century.
Many tourist and Bhutanese people all over the country come to witness this
festival to Receive the blessings from this festival. Swiss Guest House or to
be confirmed
Day 4 und 5; 19/20.October: After break fast
drive to attend
Parkhar Festival in Chummy valley and enjoy with local people. Rejoin Jambay
Lhakhang Drub. Visit other nearby monasteries. Swiss Guest House or to be confirmed
Day 6; 21. October:- Drive to
Shingkhar
Monastery. On the way to Shingkhar you can also visit Mebar Tso,
flaming lake, where treasure reveler Pemalingpa discovered treasure miraculously. Personal
audience, instructions and blessings from the Shingkha Lama. Stay overnight at
Monastery. discover the surroundings with Shingkar Lama the 15th head of
Dechenling and continue teachings.
Dechenling (3400m) was established by the Omniscient
Longchenpa in 1350s. His great grand son, Tsezang Thaye Dragpa, built a
small temple to enshrine the sacred throne of his great grand father and became
the 1st Shingkhar lama . The sacred throne was discovered in 1999 when
the temple went under major renovation. Supposed to have been built on
the life lake of the protector Rahul, people often hear tadpole squeaking
underneath the floor. The upper temple, Drogri Rinchen Jungney, a
few minutes walk from the village, is where Longchenpa meditated when he taught
in the lower temple. Dechenling is one of the 8 lingsestablished
by longchenpa in the country. An hour or so from the village is the
beautiful Shamzur temple almost dangling from the cliff. About half hour
from the temple is the Simjaya Pass (aprox. 4000m). On a clear November
day one can see far east and also almost 180 degree of the snow capped
mountain. The ancient path traced by the 1st Shingkhar Lama runs through
this pass and takes you far east.....about 3-4 days trek. Monastery.
Day 7: October 22: Shingkhar to Trongsa: (about 4 hrs
drive). visit Trongsa Dzong,
Drive via Yotong La (3354m) the road pass through dense forest of fir,
followed by blue pine and then bamboo and blue pines check in hotel and over
night at Trongsa visit Trongsa Dzong, the Dzong is possibl the most impressive
in the country- it is intricately layered into the hillside, the Dzong is just
one of the twenty districts but till the very recent past played a pivotal role
in the history of the country. After then visit Ta Dzong. The National Museum. Hotel View Point.
Day 8. October 23: Trongsa drive to to Phobjekha (Gangtey) which is
about 3 hrs drive. Punakha is another 3 hr. Hotel Dewachen.
Day 9, October 24: Gangtey to
Punakha
Punakha- Sightseeing : visit Punakha Dzong. The Dzong straddles the
confluence of two rivers and resembles a giant battleship. Its
full name is “ Punathang Dechen Phodrang” or Palace of Great Happiness” It was
built in 1637 AD.and short hike, Chimi Lhakhang, it take around 20-30mins
walks from the road head, through cultivated fields and up a gentle slop. This
Temple was built by lam Drukpa Kuenley (The Divine Madman) in 1499. Hotel Zangdo Pelri HOTEL DAMCHEN
Day 10; October 25-: After breakfast drive
from Punakha to Paro, walk around Paro later in the day. Hotel Udumwara.
Day 11; October 26:- Paro. Today we
have a relaxing day preparation for trek. Last showers etc. Hotel Udumwara.
Day 12; October
27: Paro – Shana: The
trek starts from Drukgyel Dzong (8,500 ft). The trail climbs gently through
well-maintained rice terraces. Soon the valley widens, and we reach the army
post of Gunitsawa (9,200 ft). This is the last stop before Tibet. We continue
upwards to just beyond Sharma Zampa (9,500 ft)2900m, where there are several
good camping places in meadows surrounded by trees. Distance 10.5 miles; Time
5-6 hours.
Day 13; October 28:- Shana – Soi – Thangthangkha: The trail follows the
Pa Chu (Paro River), ascending and descending through pine, oak and spruce
forests. After crossing a bridge to the left bank of the river, we stop for a
hot lunch. Then we continue along the river, climbing upwards through
rhododendron forests and crossing the river once more before reaching our
campsite. Altitude 12,300 ft;3600m Distance 12.5 miles; Time 7-8 hours.
Day 14; October 29:-
Soi Thangthangka – Jangothang: The path ascends until we reach the army camp.
We follow the river above the treeline. Hot lunch is served at a yak herder’s
camp. A short walk from here into the valley takes us to our campsite at
Jangothang. Altitude 13,300 ft;4050m Distance 12 miles; Time 7-8 hours.
Day 15; October 30: Jangothang Halt-Nice glacier lake about 3 hrs
walk (Excursion)
The
rest day in Jangothang provides plenty of
possibilities for day hikes with great views of lakes and snow capped mountains
such as Jomolhari and Jichu Drake. There are good chances to spot some blue
sheep on the upper slopes of the valley. Jangothang is a perfect environment
for your acclimatization. You can also trek up to Tosoh or hike around the
area. There are good short hiking trails in three directions. Jomolhari and its
subsidiary mountain chains lie directly west, Jichu Drake to the north and
there are a number of unclimbed peaks to the east.
Day 16; October 31:- Jangothang
– Tsophu
The trail leads north of
the last settlement in the valley and drops to the Paro Chu. Crossed the small
wooden bridge and begins the steep climbing side of the Tshophu hill and you
will have a spectacular view of mount Jhomolhari, Jechu Darky and Tserim Gang.
After that the trail switch back up the side of the hill to a large cirque and
the lake of Tshophu (4380m) which is inhabited by a flock of ruddy shelduck.
Day 17; November
1:- Tsophu-Yaktsa
Stay on the eastern side
of the lake passing a second lake as the trail climbs across a scree slope to a
crest. Descend into a hidden valley and climb steeply to Bhontela pass (4900m).
From the pass route descends a scree slop the winds down a ridge with a lot of
crisscrossing Yak trails. Finally reach to down stream to Yaksa village and
camp at 3800m.
Day 18; November
2:- Yaktsa
(Rest): Visit and experience the beautiful nomad's life
Day 17; November 3: Soi Yaktsa to Thombu
Shong
Distance 11km, four to five hours, 720m ascent, 340m
descent, camp altitude 4,180m.
The
trail climbs 100m over a ridge to drop to another
stream then. After crossing the Takhung La pass (4,520m) you descent to Thombu
Shong, three yak herder huts with your campsite next to them.
Day 18; November 4: Thombu Shong
to Shana
Day 19; November 5: Shana to Drukgyel Dzong,
Paro and Thimphu
The final day of the trek trace your footsteps back
from Shana to Drukgyel Dzong along the Paro river, the Pachu. The route will
cover 10 km taking about 2 to 3 hours. Our team will be at Drukgyel Dzong to
receive the trekkers with refreshments. We then drive to Thimphu which takes an
hour. Check in at the hotel and rest. Dinner will be arranged either at the
hotel of in town. Overnight in Thimphu. Pedling or Hotel Jumolhari
Day 20;
November 6; Thimphu – Full
day of
sightseeing in Thimphu Valley visiting the following, as time permits: National
Memorial Chorten;
Tashichhodzong (‘the fortress of the glorious
religion’); National Library; Institute for Zorig Chusum (Bhutanese arts and
crafts school); National Institute of Traditional Medicine (outside only)
Handicrafts Emporium. Evening walk around Thimphu city. Pedling or Hotel Jumolhari
Day
21;November
7:- Thimphu –
Paro
Morning drive to Paro, en route visiting Simtokha
Dzong. Today’s sightseeing in Paro includes visits to: Ta Dzong (National
Museum), Rinpung Dzong, and Kyichu Lhakhang. Overnight at the hotel in
Paro. Hotel
Udumwara.
Day 22; November
8.- Paro to Bangkok
.
Paro
Depart to your onward destination. After
breakfast transfer to airport, SNFT Service ends